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Fashionable Fall

In approaching a New York City Ballet Fall Fashion Gala commission, choreographers have two choices: make a dance that hinges upon the fashion, or make a dance regardless of the fashion, and hope that the costumes enhance rather than detract from the steps. Both paths were represented by the 2026 class of choreographers—Jennifer Archibald, Justin Peck, and Alysa Pires—and the results in every case were . . . okay.

Performance

New York City Ballet Fall Gala: “Auspicy” by Alysa Pires / “Shared Rain” by Jennifer Archibald / “Mirror/Sky” by Justin Peck

Place

David H. Koch Theater, Lincoln Center, New York, NY, October 1, 2026

Words

Faye Arthurs

David Gabriel, Emma Von Enck, and Unity Phelan in Alysa Pires’ “Auspicy.” Photograph by Erin Baiano

Pires, the lone choreographer who opted for the first road, opened the bill with “Auspicy” (which means taking omens from the observation of birds), an intensely collaborative narrative entry with the design duo Viktor & Rolf. The ballet started with a visual bang, as the curtain rose on a towering, gilded shell. Dancers in bronze unitards with neck and wrist ruffles emerged from the folds of this gargantuan, lamé Mother Ginger, summoned by a flute trill. Listed in the program as Offspring, Fledglings, and Community, these sleek, tufted creatures were a cross between “Nutcracker” Polichinelles and Brancusi’s Space Birds. Much of the perky partnering choreography for the Offspring, Emma Von Enck and David Gabriel, evoked the harlequin clowns Pierrot and Pierrette.

Unity Phelan, as Mother, appeared in a huge golden gown with “P-R-O-T-E-C-T” floating across her shoulders like candles on a cake. I thought of the various titles, arrows, or commands that hover over players in video games. She was a walking billboard—walking being the operative term. There was not much she could do in that bulk other than stroll or bourrée through her flock from time to time. But when the curtain began to fall a few minutes into the ballet, she ran to stop it—a moment so startling it seemed like perhaps it was an accident. Many in the seats around me whispered to each other, “was that supposed to happen?”

Midway through the dance, Phelan gifted long feather tails to Von Enck and Gabriel, who burrowed into her. They had apparently leveled up. Then, with the help of her squires Gilbert Bolden III and Preston Chamblee, she removed her carapace. Now in a simple beige dress, she danced an anxious solo. Though the music was legato, Phelan executed fast jumps and turns. She mimicked the angular motifs of her progeny, who jutted their elbows and knees like bent wings. Pires’s commitment to avian themes was thorough; they were prominent in the title, the choreography, the styling, and even the score, by Jocelyn Morlock, which included the composition, “Oiseaux bleus et sauvages.” (The music was conducted by Andrew Hilary Grams, with beautiful performances by cello soloists Stephen Perkyns and guest artist Coleman Itzkoff.)

Phelan’s aides joined her for an adagio pas de trois in which she pulled away from them like a ship figurehead. The stage filled with the entire cast, who were now all sporting extra plumes, and Phelan walked through them again as they moved slowly around her. When the curtain began to fall again, she ran to it, without her armor this time, and propped it up while staring down the audience until the theater went black.

Topically, this piece was radical. I am floored that maternal anxiety is the subject of a ballet on the NYCB stage. What a long way the company has come since the Balanchine and Peter Martins eras, when ballerina parenthood was discouraged (the men have always been allowed to procreate—as it doesn’t take them offstage or alter their physiques). In a relatively short amount of time, the company has gone from one or two very senior ballerinas getting away with having a kid to a veritable baby boom throughout the ranks (meaning a few dancers per position). Phelan herself has an 8-month old.

Pires’s work also demonstrated a welcome evolution in the ballet mother archetype. The handful of mom roles in the rep are prop-like, as in the ruffed and bustled queens of “Swan Lake” and “Sleeping Beauty.” Often royals, they have symbolic authority but no depth. (Pires nodded to this trend at first, with the empty dress and one-note signage.) The “Nutcracker’s” two mothers, Mother Ginger and Frau Stahlbaum, are also big-skirted drill sergeants—one cartoonish and one kindly. Though Stahlbaum does get that lovely midnight display of maternal tenderness (I’ve heard that she was originally stiffer, until Heather Watts convinced Balanchine to literally let her hair down).

Are there other mothers? Not many. The mothers in Jerome Robbins’s “Les Noces” sob as they orchestrate their children’s arranged marriage. There’s aloof, lustful Lady Capulet. Oh yes, and the Queen in Jerome Robbins’s “The Cage,” who instructs her daughters in sex and cannibalism. Pires’s closest analog would be another worried bird mom: the Cuckoo in Christopher Wheeldon’s “Carnival of the Animals,” waiting up all night for her missing chick. Pires’s Mother hinted at all this baggage before adding yet more complex maternal woes: stress, loneliness, vulnerability, ferocity.

New York City Ballet in “Shared Rain” by Jennifer Archibald. Photograph by Erin Baiano

New York City Ballet in “Shared Rain” by Jennifer Archibald. Photograph by Erin Baiano

“Auspicy’s” topic was fresh and its music was pretty. Viktor & Rolf’s wild costumes were memorable; the dancing not so much. Steps, necessarily, took a back seat to the extreme garb. Pires approached the assignment by choreographing to the elaborate designs, and “Auspicy” would crumble without them. Archibald and Peck took the opposite tack, but their dances were unfortunately more hindered than helped by their costuming. In Archibald’s case, the designs were too on the nose; in Peck’s, the outfits were antithetical.

Archibald’s company debut, “Shared Rain,” closed the evening with a quick (it was just 14 minutes) glitter bomb. Her designer, Robert Wun, plastered sequins on dark hats, asymmetric skirts, and wide pants so that every moment of the ballet glistened (as if wet with rain.) Archibald’s aim, as she explained in a pre-show video, was to find the grit in softness, and to seek the beauty in storms. In case we didn’t get the rain thing from the title, the hats were actually umbrellas. (When the curtain went up, the dancers’ heads were tilted down, so initially they resembled spiky Pokémon or anime cats or hedgehogs.)

I didn’t need so much precipitation imagery, or silver lining sparkle. Archibald’s compelling blend of hip hop, contemporary, and ballet styles was too smoothed out by the snazzy costuming. Likewise her blended soundtrack, an amalgamation of electronica, piano and strings, chanting, drumbeats, and breathwork (by Lisa Gerrard & Patrick Cassidy, Taufiq Qureshi, Hauschka & Hildur Guðnadótt.) The excellent KJ Takahashi, Victor Abreu, and Mary Thomas MacKinnon made some moments stand out from the overall glossiness. Otherwise, even innovative steps like a spin lift anchored by the women’s knees got swept into the dazzling sheen. Instead of a balance of grit and grace, “Shared Rain” evoked ice dancing brassiness. I’d like to see this again in outfits less aggressively tailored to Archibald’s thesis.  

Tiler Peck and Roman Mejia in Justin Peck’s “Mirror/Sky.” Photograph by Erin Baiano

Tiler Peck and Roman Mejia in Justin Peck’s “Mirror/Sky.” Photograph by Erin Baiano

It can happen, as Justin Peck, the company’s resident choreographer and a fashion gala pro, knows. His 2021 fashion gala piece, “Solo,” was restaged in later seasons with blessedly pared down costuming. Peck has ample experience choreographing both to costumes (“The Most Incredible Thing,” “Pulcinella Variations,” “New Blood”) and not (“Principia,” “In Creases,” “Rodeo”). For this year’s gala, he made an intimate pas de deux for Tiler Peck and Roman Mejia, “Mirror/Sky,” with statement costumes by Simone Rocha that I suspect will go the way of “Solo’s” down the line.  

“Mirror/Sky” used music by Gabriel Kahane that reinterpreted the hit “Landslide” by Stevie Nicks (who was in the gala audience, sporting a balletic riff on her flower child persona: a long, flowy, chiffon gown in pastels, loose hair topped by a floral wreath). The first movement, which featured wood blocks and church chimes, was quite refracted. Only a few vamps and chords from the famous pop song were discernable. Tiler (I’ll use first names henceforth to differentiate the Pecks, who are not related) and Mejia rolled downstage together towards the audience to commence, but then earthiness gave way to technique, as they repeated a motif of whip turns on pointe. The second movement was a very elegant cover of the song, beautifully sung from the pit by Haley Heynderickx. For this section, Tiler removed her pointe shoes, and the steps became more grounded.

Justin is good at deconstructed odes (I thought of “Bloom,” his and composer Caroline Shaw’s sophisticated remix of Balanchine’s “Tchaikovsky Pas de Deux,” which also starred Tiler, a longtime muse). And “Mirror/Sky” felt to me like his take on Christopher Wheeldon’s “After the Rain.” Justin quoted that pas de deux’s slow, side-by-side weight transfers, bent over displacements, leg-beating suspensions, plié arabesque caresses, and gentle floorwork. (There was also a neat reworking of an iconic moment from Balanchine’s “Apollo:” where the sun god and Terpsichore touch fingers and pivot away, Tiler and Mejia did the same with touched toes.) But the overall effect was very different from “Rain,” partly due to the human voice in the scoring, and partly due to the casting. Jock Soto and Wendy Whelan, “Rain’s” originators, were stoic and sculptural. Tiler and Mejia are much more romantic performers. Where Soto and Whelan read as abstract ideals, Tiler and Mejia read as lovers (in fact, they are married—though their ardency shows up in all their roles).

However, this emotional depth was almost ruined by Rocha’s stark costuming, a cream leotard with red rose pasties and lace on the tush, and a unitard with a black matador bottom and a sheer top with a rosebush ribcage overlay. (I thought these outfits were awesome, actually, but extremely ill-suited to the ballet.) Rocha met “Landslide’s” nature imagery and hippie philosophy with cartoonish boudoir chic. As Heynderickx wafted the line, “Mirror in the sky, what is love?” the clothes insinuated the Hallmark Valentine’s Day answer of lingerie and roses. I imagined mirrors in a bordello, not in the sky. Less warm dancers would’ve looked like a vulgar Adam and Eve, but Tiler and Mejia kept their dignity and their tender connection. (Though even Tiler couldn’t pass off an awkwardly slow, crunched cartwheel in those Betty Boop bloomers.) I hope to revisit this pas de deux in a few seasons, because fortunately, unlike the narrator of “Landslide,” Justin Peck isn’t afraid of changing.

Faye Arthurs


Faye Arthurs is a former ballet dancer with New York City Ballet. She chronicled her time as a professional dancer in her blog Thoughts from the Paint. She graduated summa cum laude with a B.A. in English from Fordham University. She lives in Brooklyn with her partner and their sons.

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